Waffles and Chocolate

Antwerp, Belgium:

Or how to gain five pounds in one long weekend:

Belgian waffles.

Belgian chocolate.

Belgian pannenkoeken

How can one little country be stuffed with so many decadent treats? Well, at least the diamonds aren't fattening.

Start with:

The Belgian breakfast buffet at the Park Lane Radisson.

Rich, buttery chocolate croissants and deep chocolate muffins are just the starters, followed by smoked salmon and young Dutch cheese, fresh fruit salad (to sooth your conscience) and another chocolate croissant (or two) for the road. Just promise yourself you'll swim the calories off later in the indoor pool.

Inbetween stops at chocolatiers, don't miss:

Desire de Lille, a waffle and crepe house with a large outdoor garden seating hidden behind the tangle of streets in Antwerp's busy downtown shopping district.
Start with the Kaas Kroketten or Fondue Parmesan, two crabcake-sized mounds of melt- in- your- mouth parmesan cheese inside a crispy crust. What American mozzarella sticks can only aspire to be, but never come close.

Top it off with a crepe dame blanche, a thin pancake topped with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce and a dollop of fresh whipped cream.

On your way out, stop at Desire de Lille's takeout on the corner for a warm, thick and sugary waffle known as a gaufre de Liege, and some smoutebollen, the Belgian version of donuts.

Wander about town for a while, then on the square by the theater (more importantly, across from Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren) take a seat in one of the creamy bucket chairs at
the Guylian Cafe, one of two chocolate cafes run by the Belgian chocolate maker.
Chocolate dips, chocolate shakes, chocolate desserts and chocolate specials fill the menu, and a chocolate bonbon accompanies every warm drink.

Go for the Guylian Surprise, a scoop of their signature chocolate ice cream and whipped cream, chocolate mousse pie and a shot glass of Guylian Praline Cream liqueur.

Waffles are the masterpieces at the Ijssalon Van Dijck, a busy sidewalk cafe in a 15th century building that was the birth house of artist Antoon Van Dijck, further downtown past the Grote market near the Cathedrale. Huge but light, fluffy and freshly cooked, the waffles here come topped with powdered sugar, butter, or fresh whipped cream. The pannenkoeken or pancakes, are also artistic creations. The Normande -- topped with caramelized sliced apples-- is worth breaking a diet. When you are overseas, calories don't count.
Coffee comes with a chocolate treat or a mini muffin on the side. It's also a great spot for people watching.

A few blocks away, on the Korte Gasthuisstraat, pick up some homemade chocolate mussels, chocolate seashells and chocolate diamonds at Chocolatier Burie, an intense experience for all chocoholics. Next door chocolate comes in a Tintin box at Neuhaus. Godiva is just down the block. Follow the line out the door nearby at Goosens, for homemade Belgian pastries.

Closer to DeKeyserLei and the Central train station is Del Rey, another chocolatier and cafe. The homemade chocolates are unrivaled. And real diamonds are a five minute stroll away in Antwerp's famous diamond district.